Crank Brothers pedals are some of the most popular mountain bike pedals on the market, and they are certainly some of our favorites here at the shop. We thought it would be a no brainer to bring you a MTB How To on servicing your own Crank Brothers pedals, that way you can get your pedals spinning like new again. To learn more about how the Crank Brothers style of clipless pedals stacks up against other brands out there, be sure to watch our MTB Clipless Pedals - Which Brand is Right for You? video. There is a lot of good info in there and a perfect place to start if you want to learn more about the different kinds of clipless pedals. Now let's get to servicing some pedals!
To start disassembling the pedal, first remove the end cap. On newer Crankbrothers pedals, the aluminum end cap can be removed with a 6mm allen key. On older models, the end cap functions exactly the same but may be made of plastic and removed with a large flat head screwdriver. Simply hold the pedal body with your hand and remove the end cap with your allen key. In the photo below, you'll notice the two different style of end caps.
As we continue to strip down the pedal, use an 8mm socket to unthread the spindle nut on the outer edge of the pedal body. Insert an 8mm allen key to hold the spindle in place while loosening the spindle nut. Once the nut is removed, pull the spindle out of the body of the pedal.
As you remove the spindle from the pedal body, make note of the orientation of the outside seals on the spindle. Usually when you slide the spindle out, the outer dust seals stay attached to the spindle and come out with it. Slide the old seals off, and clean off the spindle. Remove any old grease and corrosion that may have been happening on your spindle. You want the spindle to be as clean as possible before reassembling your pedals.
Using a T25 wrench, hold the pedal body with your hand and unthread the two bolts on each side of the pedal body. The pedal platform on all Mallet pedals uses a two piece design and sandwiches the eggbeater clip system in the middle. As your pull apart the pedal body, make note of the orientation of the eggbeater so assembly will go nice and easy.
On the outside of the pedal body sits a small enduro cartridge bearing. Using your bearing extraction tool and hammer, tap the cartridge bearing out of the pedal and set it aside. You can also slide the used bearing on to the end of your spindle and spin the bearing to get a feel for the condition of the used bearing.
Apply a layer of grease on to the bearing seat surface on the pedal body. Using the same bearing extraction tool, tap the new bearing in to place on the outside of the pedal body. Using the same trick, slide the spindle into the bearing and spin the spindle to ensure the bearing isn't binding and is running smoothly.
On either side of the eggbeater clip mechanism there is a bushing and o-ring. The inner bushing is 4mm tall and the outer bushing is 2mm tall. Using a pick or a razor blade, remove both bushing and throw them away.
Now that the inner bushing has been removed, now it's time to remove the old Igus LL-glide bearing. This glide bearing is where the majority of the spindle makes contact to the pedal. Use 14mm socket, your bearing extraction tool, and a hammer to tap out the old bearing. The socket gives the bearing a place to slide as it's being removed.
Make sure the pedal body is clean before installing the new bearings. Apply a layer of grease to the bearing seat and using a 10mm socket and a hammer, tap the new Igus LL-glide bearing in to place. Now you should have both new bearings in place in the pedal body.
Make sure the pedal body is clean before installing the new bushings. The inner and outer bushings are what keep the eggbeater clip mechanism spinning inside of the pedal body. Slide an o-ring over each of the bushing and press them in by hand. Remember the inner bushing is the taller of the two.
Connect the two peices of the pedal body back together, sandwiching the eggbeater clip system in the middle. Use a T25 wrench to reinstall the pedal body hardware and for pedals from 2015+, tighten them down to 6Nm. For pedals from 2011 to 2015, tighten down the pedal body hardware to 2.5Nm.
Grab your clean spindle and slide on the appropriate spindle seals. Follow the photo below to make sure your have both the inner and outer seals oriented properly. Apply a layer of grease to the spindle friction surfaces and to the inner seal. The grease acts like a secondary layer of defense from keeping water and grime out of the pedal.
Slide the spindle in to the pedal body and using an 8mm socket, tighten the spindle nut down to 4Nm while holding the spindle in place with an 8mm allen key.
Using your 6mm allen key, install your new end cap and tighten it down to 3Nm. Wipe off any excess grease and make sure the pedal is spinning smoothly and everything is tight. Repeat the same process for the other pedal and you will be good to go!
Max Morgan is 26 years old, and lives in Brevard, North Carolina. Max grew up in Atlanta, Georgia and started racing downhill at the age of 15. He has now been racing professionally for the last 8 years, competing in the UCI World Cup series and U.S. Pro GRT series. To learn more about Max, check out Max's rider spotlight here!